Maison Margiela: eras, labels and the numbers 0 to 23

Most labels shout a name. A Margiela label says nothing at all: a white rectangle, sometimes with a row of numbers on it. It looks like a riddle, but it is one of the most useful labels in fashion. Once you know how it works, it tells you the line a piece belongs to and helps you place it in time.

1988 to 2009: Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela was born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1979 and worked as Jean Paul Gaultier's design assistant in Paris from 1984 to 1987. He founded Maison Martin Margiela in 1988 with Jenny Meirens.

The first show, for spring/summer 1989, was held in Paris in 1988. It introduced the Tabi, the split-toe boot based on the Japanese sock of the same name, which became the house's best-known design. A year later the spring/summer 1990 collection was shown on a run-down playground on the edge of Paris.

Margiela stayed out of view: he took no bow after shows, was not photographed and gave no formal interviews. From 1997 to 2003 he also designed the women's collections at Hermès, where his first show was for autumn/winter 1998.

The blank white label

From the start the label was a plain white cotton rectangle with nothing written on it, held by one stitch in each corner. On unlined garments those four white stitches show on the outside, which is how the pieces are recognised from behind.

Four white stitches on the back: that is how a Margiela piece is recognised from behind.

1997: the numbers 0 to 23

In 1997 the house introduced a second label printed with the numbers 0 to 23. One number is circled, and it tells you the line:

• 0: Artisanal, garments reworked by hand from existing pieces (0 and 10 circled together: Artisanal for men)
• 1: the women's collection
• 3: fragrances (from 2010)
• 4: a wardrobe for women (from spring/summer 2004)
• 6: the women's diffusion line, launched in 1997 and sold as MM6 since 2004
• 8: eyewear (from 2008)
• 10: the men's collection (from spring/summer 1999)
• 11: accessories (from 2005)
• 12: fine jewellery (from 2008)
• 13: objects and publications
• 14: a wardrobe for men (introduced in the mid-2000s)
• 22: shoes (women's from 1998)

The plain white label did not disappear in 1997. It stayed in use for the women's runway pieces, so a blank label does not by itself mean a piece is older than 1997.

Replica

Replica pieces, made since 1994, are reproductions of existing garments. Each has a second label giving a description of the style, where the original came from and its period.

2002: a new owner

In July 2002 the majority of the company was sold to Only The Brave, the group of Diesel founder Renzo Rosso. Martin Margiela stayed on as creative director.

2009 to 2014: the design team

In December 2009 the house confirmed that Martin Margiela had left. No successor was named, and the collections were designed by the in-house team for the next five years. A collection for H&M came out in 2012.

2014 to 2024: John Galliano

John Galliano was announced as creative director in October 2014 and showed his first collection in January 2015. At the same time the house dropped "Martin" from its name and became Maison Margiela. Galliano left in December 2024.

2025: Glenn Martens

Glenn Martens was appointed creative director in January 2025.

What the label tells you

So, with a piece in your hands, read it in this order:

• The circled number gives the line. A piece from a line can't be older than the year that line began: a circled 10 is spring/summer 1999 or later, a circled 4 is spring/summer 2004 or later.
• The name Maison Martin Margiela (with "Martin") on a care label, box or insole generally points to before the 2015 name change.
• Martin Margiela's own years end in 2009. Pieces from 2010 to 2014 are by the design team, and from 2015 to 2024 by John Galliano.

The number label has no year on it. If you want us to check a piece, ask in the chat.